By Lauren Coughlin
I have been to several national parks in the United States, including Yosemite, the Grand Canyon and Red Rock Canyon. Much of my family lives out West, and childhood trips were spent at these vast national parks. But, I am a self-proclaimed indoor person, and I don’t remember always enjoying our family trips. I never loved my time in national parks — that is until I visited Akagera National Park in eastern Rwanda this summer.
Akagera “is Central Africa’s largest protected wetland and the last remaining refuge for savannah-adapted species in Rwanda,” the park’s website says.
I expected it to offer what any national park does: great views, some wildlife and crowds of tourists. As a kid, I would always fain excitement when going to parks, and I was fully prepared to pretend to be excited for the next 12 hours of my life.
I imagined a safari like the ones I have seen in movies and on TV. Sure enough, we started the day at 6:30 a.m., and climbed aboard army-green tourist jeeps with sliding glass windows and pop-up roofs, like the ones in the movies.
We drove past hordes of baboons that hang out at the edges of the game lodge in hopes of stealing a few bites to eat. They can be aggressive, Moses warned us, and told us they could be inclined to jump into the jeeps if tantalized by food or drink. For a moment, I reconsidered my choice to be in the “great outdoors.”
As we passed through the cluster of them, one large baboon in particular started to beeline for the jeep. We all slammed our windows shut with a speed I have never felt so collectively from a group. Looking to the front of the vehicle, I saw Moses with a coffee cup in hand that he had been holding out the window. We learned a quick lesson in what will make a baboon run at you.
The excitement of the baboons quickly faded, however, as other wild animals came into view. Lions, elephants, giraffes, zebras and several types of antelopes. I had seen grizzlies from afar, from the safety of a car, but never had I been in such proximity to animals in the wild.
At that moment, seeing all of these animals, I felt more connected to nature and wildlife than ever before. Just a year ago, I was studying in the Czech Republic when I was tricked, and I do mean tricked, into hiking up a mountain. I was under the guise that we were going on a spa trip, but that did not happen. That is a moment where my self-proclaimed “indoor girl” took over. But, there is nothing like Akagera National Park.
There are close moments and quiet ones, and in the quiet at Akagera, there are bird songs. One thing that truly struck me throughout this safari were the beautiful birds. I did not really expect to see many birds based on the brochures showing the lions and elephants. There is a really special thing about birds: you can find beautiful ones almost anywhere in the world.
I have always loved birds, my only tattoo is a hummingbird that matches my grandmother’s gravestone. Birds hold meaning in my life, and I have found some new birds to love. Our guide Moses showed us all of the different birds and told us facts about them all day. From starlings to eagles to storks, he showed each he could find.
Though, none of the birds stood out to me like the lilac-breasted roller though. This tiny miraculous creature was covered in colors from the brightest turquoise to the most vibrant lilacs and cobalts.
This single bird is unlike anything I have seen in my life, and it truly shows one of the small parts of what makes Akagera such a special place. I think this single bird is what finally won me over. Akagera National Park gives space for its wildlife to breathe, and as a traveler, it is something I never realized was so important.
In many of my past experiences in national parks, they have been overcrowded, underfunded and the people did not truly respect the wildlife around them. Akagera could not be more different. The park is well taken care of and respected.
Wildlife is truly allowed to thrive and most important for a tourist, it is not overcrowded. During our entire nearly 12-hour day, I saw fewer than 10 other jeeps full of people. There is actually space for you to look at the wildlife and truly take it all in.
At Akagera, I could see the kind of wildlife that makes our world so incredible. Seeing animals big and small in their natural habitat reminded me of how much beauty exists outside of my everyday routine. It made me realize that stepping outside of my comfort zone can lead to experiences that change the way I see the world. Akagera is one of the most beautiful places that I have ever seen. As a self-proclaimed “indoor girl,” I have been reformed in seeing Akagera National Park.
Don’t get me wrong, the day we had was not glamorous. When I got home, I was bruised up and down my legs and arms from being bumped around in the jeep so much, and I had to OxiClean my shirt three times to get all of the dust out. What I can say though, is there is no place I have ever been that gives each tourist so much care. There is care in every part of this park and all are welcomed at Akagera National Park.
Lauren Coughlin was a student in the Travel Journalism in Rwanda program in the summer of 2026.
